Haebaru hanaori (南風原花織) is a “flower weave” from Haebaru in southern Okinawa, with small, raised geometric motifs that look almost three-dimensional. Unlike the light summer cloths Okinawa is known for, it was traditionally woven in wool, cotton and silk as a heavier, warmer cloth for winter kimono and haori jackets. It has its own local techniques with names found nowhere else, and in 2017 it became Okinawa’s newest nationally designated textile. You can see and buy it at the Ryukyu Kasuri Kaikan in Haebaru.
This page is part of our guide to Ryukyuan textiles, which compares all of Okinawa’s woven and dyed crafts.
Haebaru Hanaori at a Glance
| Japanese | 南風原花織 (Haebaru hanaori) |
| Technique | Hanaori (flower weave): motifs raised with extra floating threads |
| Fibres | Silk, cotton, ramie and wool |
| Made in | Haebaru Town |
| Designations | Okinawa Prefecture traditional craft product (12 June 1998); national Traditional Craft, Ministry of Economy, Trade and Industry (26 January 2017) |
| Cooperative | Ryukyu Kasuri Business Cooperative (琉球絣事業協同組合), which covers both Ryukyu kasuri and Haebaru hanaori |
Hanaori and Ukiori
Hanaori raises small motifs, such as diamonds, crosses and flower shapes, by passing extra threads over the surface of the cloth. Okinawa Prefecture divides Haebaru’s weaves into two kinds:
- Hanaori (花織): no loose “play” threads on the back of the cloth.
- Ukiori (浮織, float weave): with loose floats left on the back.
The cooperative adds that Haebaru has hanaori techniques with names that exist only in this area, including yashirami hanaori (ヤシラミ花織), kwankwan-ori (クワアンクワアン織り) and tacchirī (タッチリー). The motifs stand out with a raised, three-dimensional effect that the cooperative compares to flowers.
Did you know? Haebaru has a song about the patience hanaori demands. The cooperative quotes a line that says only a woman who can untangle even the most knotted thread is able to weave the flowers of yashirami, a lesson in perseverance passed down in song.
History
The cooperative finds signs that hanaori techniques were handed down from mother to daughter in Haebaru from the Meiji era. Older residents interviewed by the cooperative recalled hanaori hand towels woven in the late Meiji era being given to soldiers leaving for war, and being used again after the soldiers brought them home, in the early Taishō era.
In April 1914, Haebaru’s village girls’ supplementary school opened, and many local girls learned hanaori and twill weaving there. The weaver Kanamori Ichiroku (金森市六), invited from Kumamoto Prefecture, taught structured weaves including yashirami hanaori, shamon-ori, ro (gauze), rōton-ori and eight-shaft hanaori. Combined with older family techniques, this produced Haebaru’s distinctive weaves, such as Kyan hachi-ori (喜屋武八織) and Teruya hanaori (照屋花織), named after local districts.
The prefecture says hanaori was being produced in Haebaru in the Taishō era and spread as warm cloth for winter kimono and haori. After the Battle of Okinawa, survivors gathered whatever materials they could to restart weaving. Haebaru hanaori became a prefectural traditional craft product in 1998 and a national Traditional Craft on 26 January 2017, the most recent Okinawan textile to receive the national designation.
Dyes and Materials
The cooperative says Haebaru hanaori is characterised by plant dyes gathered in Okinawa, such as Ryukyu indigo, fukugi (Garcinia) and techi (sharinbai). Chemical dyes are also used: acid dyes for silk, and vat, reactive and direct dyes for cotton. The prefecture lists silk, cotton, ramie and wool as materials.
Recognised Makers
There is no Important Intangible Cultural Property holder for Haebaru hanaori. The cooperative’s list of nationally certified traditional craftspeople (伝統工芸士) includes several weavers certified in the comprehensive hanaori category (総合部門(花織)).
Where to See and Buy Haebaru Hanaori
The Ryukyu Kasuri Kaikan (琉球かすり会館) in Haebaru is the place to go. Its display and sales corner includes Haebaru hanaori alongside Ryukyu kasuri, from kimono cloth and obi to ladies’ wear made with panels of hanaori, card cases and other small items.
- Address: 157 Motobu, Haebaru Town (南風原町本部157)
- Hours: weekdays and Saturdays 9:00–17:30
- Closed: Sundays, public holidays and over the New Year. Phone: 098-889-1634
The cooperative holds weaving experiences as scheduled events, such as coaster weaving in the summer holidays; check its website for current dates. Haebaru is in Southern Okinawa, next to Naha.
Practical details in this section last checked: Oct 2026.
How to Tell Authentic Haebaru Hanaori
According to the cooperative, genuine Haebaru hanaori woven in the production area carries its certification label (証紙). Designated Traditional Craft products may also carry the national Traditional Craft label (伝統証紙). Ask to see the labels when buying kimono cloth or obi.
Haebaru Hanaori and Other Okinawan Hanaori
Okinawa has several hanaori traditions, each with its own character: Shuri hanaori of the royal capital, Yomitanzan hanaori from Yomitan, Chibana hanaori from Okinawa City with its warp floats, and the hanaori of Yonaguni. Haebaru’s is distinguished by its warmth and weight and its local techniques such as yashirami.
Frequently Asked Questions
What is Haebaru hanaori?
Haebaru hanaori is a flower weave from Haebaru in southern Okinawa, with raised geometric motifs. It was traditionally woven in wool, cotton and silk as a warm cloth for winter kimono and haori, and became a national Traditional Craft in 2017.
What is the difference between hanaori and ukiori?
In Haebaru, hanaori has no loose threads on the back of the cloth, while ukiori (float weave) leaves loose floats on the back.
Where can I buy Haebaru hanaori?
At the Ryukyu Kasuri Kaikan in Haebaru, run by the Ryukyu Kasuri Business Cooperative, which sells both Ryukyu kasuri and Haebaru hanaori. It opens weekdays and Saturdays 9:00–17:30.
What is yashirami hanaori?
Yashirami is one of the hanaori techniques that the cooperative says exist only in Haebaru. It was among the weaves taught at the village girls’ school from 1914 by Kanamori Ichiroku.
Sources & Further Reading
Facts on this page were checked against these sources. Most are official Japanese-language pages from the prefecture, the Agency for Cultural Affairs, producers’ cooperatives and museums.
Official and cooperative sources
- Ryukyu Kasuri Business Cooperative: What is Haebaru hanaori? (Japanese)
- Ryukyu Kasuri Business Cooperative: History of Haebaru and its weaving (Japanese)
- Ryukyu Kasuri Business Cooperative: list of certified traditional craftspeople (Japanese)
- Ryukyu Kasuri Business Cooperative: Ryukyu Kasuri Kaikan opening hours and access (Japanese)
- Okinawa Kōgei no Mori: Ryukyu Kasuri and Haebaru Hanaori (prefectural craft centre, Japanese)
- Okinawa Prefecture: Overview of craft industry policy, FY2024 (production-area profiles) (official, Japanese)
Image credits
No photos are used on this page yet. We only use photos with a clear, commercially usable licence, and found none we could verify for this textile.